Aviator Jumpsuit 2.0

Back in the day…you know, back before electricity and indoor plumbing, way, way back in time…I had a red aviator jumpsuit that I adored. I wore it whenever I had the chance. Eventually, though, it wore out and life went on. Still, I loved that aviator jumpsuit and have missed it at various times in my life. There is even photographic evidence of my love for my aviator jumpsuit, which I will share will you below.

Given this history, you can understand that when aviator suits or flight suits or coveralls or some version of them became available in the sewing world, my interest was definitely piqued!! I had absolutely no discipline and bought each jumpsuit patterns as they were released: I now own the Aviator Jumpsuit by Wardrobe by Me, the Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core Patterns, the Intrepid Boiler Suit by Alice & Co, and I even bought the Wendy Ward book, Sewing Basics for Every Body, because of the jumpsuit on the cover. I seriously wanted a new jumpsuit!!

The Details.

After much consideration, the first version I decided to make was the Wardrobe by Me (“WBM”) Aviator Jumpsuit. It was a tough decision, but I was really concerned about the vertical trunk measurement (shoulder to crotch measurement) and the WBM patterns are drafted for 5’8″ (I’m 5’10”, so not a huge difference) and had the vertical trunk measurement for each size and steps for alterations, if necessary, spelled out. Also, I liked the simplicity of the pattern for a first attempt…no hardware necessary. Just buttons and buttonholes, which don’t bother me. Let me be real for a minute: this type of pattern uses a lot of fabric, especially since I needed to add length to the pattern in both trunk and legs, so I wanted to get as close to a sure thing as I could get. Wasting 3 1/2 yards or more of fabric was NOT something I’d be happy about. Consideration of each of those factors helped me determine that the Aviator Jumpsuit should be the first jumpsuit pattern I tackled.

As I discussed earlier, I was very concerned about the trunk being long enough…I really didn’t want to end up with an Aviator Jumpsuit that gave me a wedgie. At my height of 5’10” (I made a 16), the vertical measurement as drafted was longer than a tape measure at 66″. (My tape measures are all 60″.) My friend came over to help me do the vertical trunk measurement. We ended up using twine: I held the piece up at my shoulder, then dropped it down between my legs, she grabbed it and went up my back to meet up again at my shoulders and cut the twine, then we measured how long the piece was. I ended up having a vertical trunk measurement of 73″, so I definitely needed to add length in the trunk. I also added 3″ to the leg length, but feel like they could be longer. (The finished inseam in 30″…I knew better, but I really didn’t know how much the ease in the crotch would affect the legs. They’re definitely wearable as is, but another 1 1/2″ would be better.)

Here is my finished Aviator Jumpsuit. I made the rounded neck version with the inseam collar. I used some fabulous black linen from Fabrics Store, so this Aviator Jumpsuit travels and wears well. (It’s already been on a trip across the country!) If I were to make one to wear without a belt, I think I’d leave out the inseam pockets…they look weird on my hips without the belt on. I may have just placed them too low, I’m just not sure.

I ignored the button guide because I added three plus inches to the trunk, so when the suit was ready for buttons, I tried it on and made a mark right at the point of my bust where I wanted a button and worked from there…that way I don’t have gaping buttons at my chest. I also paid attention to what would happen when I sat down…I didn’t want gaping at the abdomen.

I wear the sleeves rolled to about 3/4 length, but I don’t care for sleeve tabs, so I left those off. I added belt loops for the tie because I felt like the back dragged down too much when I wore them for any amount of time. The first time I attached them, I placed them a bit too low and had to reposition them. Trial by error. The belt loops allow me to sit down and stand up without too much readjusting. The inseam pockets are positioned nicely when the belt is holding everything in place, so I can’t figure out how I’d position them if I was to make a version I could wear with or without the belt.

This was a terrific pattern and the only problems I had were problems of my own making. I am still not very good at plackets: I just can’t get as clean a finish as I’d like at the bottom of the placket where it joins the fabric. I wish the legs of this jumpsuit were just a bit longer, but that was definitely a me problem–I just didn’t add enough length to the legs. Wardrobe by Me did a terrific job with the instructions and I definitely love my new Aviator Suit…almost as much as I loved my old one all of those years ago! (Funny story: my husband knew I was making this, saw me working on it, and was still shocked when I finally modeled the finished product: “Oh, I thought it was going to be red!” I actually don’t own anything red anymore…isn’t that strange?)

Erin’s Pro Tip: If you love it, wear it. It doesn’t matter if it’s fashionable or “in” or whatever. Just because you wore it 35 years ago doesn’t mean you can’t wear it today!!